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Reference

The Leather Library

A working reference on how leather is made, graded, finished and cared for. Plain answers to the questions the trade usually leaves vague.

Grades and layers

Which layer of the hide the leather came from, and what the words on a label actually commit to.

Finishes and textures

What was done to the surface after tanning, and how to tell a grown grain from a pressed one.

Hides and origins

Which animal, which country, and what those names do and do not guarantee.

Craft and process

How a hide becomes leather, how it is put together, and how it changes with use.

Care and repair

What helps, what harms, and what cannot be undone.

Leather goods

The archetypes, what distinguishes them, and what each one is actually for.

Corporate Gifts & Hospitality

Design & Manufacturing

Lunburg Chamberlain toiletry bag in Deep Mahogany leather with its wrist strap, beside an ivory towel and a shaving brush on an oak atelier workbench.

What Is a Dopp Kit?

A small toiletry bag, usually leather, made to hold shaving equipment and washing things for travel.

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Three taupe leather samples showing elongated grain, rounded pebble and fine compact grain on an oak atelier workbench.

Pebbled Leather: What It Is, and Whether It Is Real

A texture that can be the animal's own or pressed in with a heated plate. The repeat tells you which.

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Cognac vegetable-tanned aniline leather partly unrolled on an oak atelier workbench, showing its natural grain.

Aniline Leather: What It Is, and How to Tell

Coloured with transparent dyes and then left alone. The surface you touch is the leather itself.

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Lunburg Estate duffle bag in Deep Mahogany tumbled leather, closed with its handles lowered, on an oak atelier workbench.

Holdall, Duffel or Duffle: What the Words Mean

They are the same bag. Holdall is British; duffel and duffle are what it is called elsewhere.

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Chocolate-brown Saffiano leather partly unrolled on an oak atelier workbench, showing its fine crosshatch texture.

Saffiano Leather: What It Is, and How It Is Made

A finish rather than a hide or a grade: a cross-hatch pressed into the surface with a heated plate.

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Cognac leather notebook with a small absorbed oil stain beside a dish of cornflour, a cotton cloth and a soft brush on an oak workbench.

How to Get Oil and Grease Out of Leather

Blot, never rub. Cover the mark in an absorbent powder, leave it for hours rather than minutes, brush it away, and repeat.

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Artisan gently gathering navy-blue leather into soft folds on an oak atelier workbench to assess its suppleness.

Soft Leather: What Makes Leather Soft

Softness comes down to how freely the fibre bundles inside the hide can move against each other.

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Artisan using a silver marking pen to circle small surface defects on cognac leather at an atelier workbench.

Leather Grades Explained

Two entirely different grading systems, and the relationship between them is the most useful thing on the page.

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